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Living Together
Life Lines

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At a Camp in Macedonia
   by Tom Verner, Lincoln

Photo-Collage of Tom's Visit to
Momenpotak, a Roma Camp
{click on image for larger view}

It was my first day, getting ready to perform what would turn out to be fifteen magic shows in camps around Macedonia and Kosovo, the beginning of a week that would be a heart-opening and heart-breaking journey into the world of refugees.  They would no longer be the fleeting twenty second images on CNN.
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I was picked up at a café in downtown Skopje by Marcin and Anna, two earnest, enthusiastic, twentysomething young people who work for an NGO called Balkan Sunflowers.  Marcin is from Poland, Anna from New Zealand.  They work with the children in some of the refugee camps.  We were going to a camp called Momenpotak, a camp for Roma people -- a people we usually refer to as 'gypsies', a term which they consider derogatory.  The Roma were driven out of Kosovo three years ago by the Serbs and have been in camps in Macedonia ever since.
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Momenpotak is outside the town of Shutka, about half an hour from Skopje.  We passed through Shutka and headed north through a garbage dump.  Children and dogs were rummaging through the garbage looking ofr God knows what.  We arrived at the camp, which was at the edge of the dump, and it was difficult to tell where the dump ended and the camp began.
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Children and adults gather for Tom's magic show.

The camp was a collection of patched-together structures made of corrugated sheets of metal, plywood, cloth, cardboard, flattened-out tin cans, whatever would keep out the elements and provide a measure of privacy.  Marcin rattled on a sheet of corrugated metal that turned out to be a door.  A little girl poked her head out, big beautiful brown Roma eyes looked up at me.  This was five year old Fatima who became my guide and magician's assistant for the next hour and a half while I was there in Momenpotak.
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There was a clearing in the midst of the camp with pallets laid side by side and covered with a UNHCR blue and white tarp -- the United Nations High Commission for Refugees.  This was where Marcin and Anna gathered gathered with the children to play games and teach them Math and English.  It became my performance space.  Marcin found me an old foot stool for a table which I covered with my table cloth and within ten minutes there were fifty or so adults and children gathered for the magic show.  Fatima was bright and delightful as she helped me during the show and got other children to help as volunteers.
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Tom & Fatima perform.

The show lasted about an hour and was wonderfully received by these smiling, laughing Roma, who almost never leave the camp and have little or nothing that might be called entertainment.  Afterward, as I was heading back to the car, a number of the Roma women wanted to be photographed with the magician.  We stopped and took lots of pictures.  But I did not see Fatima, and I felt badly that I might not get to thank her and say goodbye.  I had fallen madly in love.
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Eventually, we continued on and finally arrived at the car.  There was Fatima, sitting in the back seat, ready to run away with the magician.  I hesitated.  I was concerned.  But after a moment, I began to wonder what what her hopes were, what she was thinking.  A few Roma women were present, and one of them, who looked almost Ethiopian, went over to Fatima and began to talk to her.  Her voice was soft, so I could hear, but I didn't understand what she was saying.  The next thing I knew, Fatima was out of the car.  Marcin told me that the woman simply explained to Fatima that I had to go, and that she had to come back to the camp with the others.
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Fatima and I said our goodbyes and we headed off down the road, to the next magic show.  When I turned back to look, the last thing I saw was Fatima, waving me on my way.  ...
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Tom Verner has been a therapist and a faculty member at Burlington College.  He currently works as a magician.  He performed this summer at the Addison County Fair & Field Days, and is currently visiting the refugee camps in Bosnia and Kosovo.  He lives with his daughter Mira in Lincoln. 
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[Ed. Note:  Tom Verner went to Kosovo and Macedonia back in October.  Before he left, we asked him if he would be willing to tell us about his experiences when he returned.  This piece, then, is the first of several about his trip, and is also the first in a multi-part series about Children and War, part of our on-going Special Report on Terrorism and the War to End It.]
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