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Food
& Dining Good Eats
. Grouse,
pheasant, and quail ... Game Bird Recipes
from The Country Cookbook, The Countryman Press, Weston ... There's
no taste quite like the taste of a game bird. Here in Vermont, the
season on most small game birds runs through the end of the year. Bobwhite
Quail has no closed season, while you can take Ruffed Grouse (Partridge) or
Pheasant up to December 31st. The season for Woodcock is set a little
differently each year.
In that light, we thought there
might be some of you out there who'd like to know how these birds were prepared
back when. Of course, if you're not inclined to go hunting for small game
birds, you can always try these recipes on store-bought fowl, like Cornish Game
Hen or {if you can find it any longer} capon. Of course, a better bet
might be any free-range fowl, like that at Misty
Knoll Farms, which we featured last issue. If you did
visit us here last month, then you also know that we came upon an old recipe for
turkey and stuffing ... from The Country Cookbook: Cooking,
Canning and Preserving Victuals for Country Home, Farm, Camp & Trailer, with
Notes on Rustic Hospitality, by Cora, Rose & Bob Brown. As we
noted then, The Country Cookbook was published in 1937 by The
Countryman Press, Inc., of Weston, Vermont, as part of "The
Country Series," one of many specialty series from this small
publisher. The folks over at Countryman were kind
enough to give us permission to publish from The Country Cookbook, so
we've turned to it once again for these recipes. The layout follows as
closely as possible that of the original text. Game
Bird Recipes from The
Country Cookbook: Cooking, Canning and Preserving Victuals for
Country Home, Farm, Camp & Trailer, with Notes on Rustic Hospitality by
Cora, Rose & Bob Brown The
Countryman Press, Weston; 1937. | |
Braised Grouse. Prepare as for grilling; lay in pan on
strips of bacon; place bits of celery around, and for each pair an
onion stuck with 4 cloves, a thick slice of carrot and 8
peppercorns. Fry a sliced onion light brown in butter, add a
cup of meat broth or water, and, if tough, a tablespoon of whiskey or applejack;
cut a circle of buttered paper a little larger than the pan and lay
over the birds, tucking it in around the edges so no steam can
escape, cover tight and simmer or put in the oven. Add a very
little wine to the pan gravy before serving. PARTRIDGES
Young partridges, those with dark bills and yel- lowish
legs, may be split down the back, dipped in oil and
breadcrumbs, and grilled There are
innumerable recipes for old ones, most of them of French origin.
Boiled Partridges. Put in a floured cloth and then in
boiling water, boil rapidly 15 minutes then reduce heat. For the
sauce add butter, flour, cream and some of the cooking liquor; add
minced parsley at the end. Roast
Partridges. Roast like chickens 1/2 hour, chop livers into
the gravy. Eat with currant or grape jelly. Or braise
like grouse. PHEASANT
The pheasant and woodcock must be well matured on their strings and
the problem of the amateur is to decide just when to take them down
if they are to be in full flavor and not past that perfect point.
Split young pheasant down the back, truss open, brush well with
melted butter and grill. The age may be determined by the last
big wing feather which stays pointed while the bird is young and grows
rounder with the seasons. The old males
which have long sharp spurs, can only be grilled if parboiled first;
then drain, dry, dot with butter, season and broil. Reduce
parboiling liquid to a few spoonfuls, add to pan drippings, and pour
over after laying the birds on toast. Or, season birds and
brown in butter; lay in a casserole on a bed of chopped apples which
have been browned in butter, and surround with the brown chopped apples.
Bake well covered. QUAIL
Season and rub young quail thickly with butter be- fore completely
covering with bacon and grilling. The flavor and odor of quail is
evanescent and quickly evaporates if exposed to the air in cooking, so
they should never be split, but must be kept whole and covered up
with something, preferably not a liquid. French cooks fold each
one in an oval, but- tered paper, doubling the edges of the paper
tightly together so no steam escapes. The papers are not opened
until they are on the table. Each package contains a little
natural gravy which is emptied over the bird after it is laid on hot
toast. In England grilled or poached beef narrow is spread on
the toast just before the grilled quail are put to bed.
Braise old ones like grouse; or smother in green peas like pigeons;
or just simmer in butter in a closely covered pan, add a tablespoon
of wine to the gravy and garnish with green grapes. WOODCOCK
Here is the problem of the trail again for the squeamish
non-gourmets. If you must remove any of it take out only the
lower end, season, rub thickly with butter, wrap completely in bacon
slices, fasten- ing the ends of the slices together with toothpicks, and
slowly grill or roast, turning often, for 15-30 minutes. Lay on
toast, pour pan drippings over and then pour over melted butter mixed
with a little minced parsley and lemon juice. Woodcock
in Blazes. Split half-roasted woodcocks, lay in a casserole,
saving the trail; cover with 1/4 cup or a little less of applejack,
run, or brandy for each bird and light. Baste with the burning
liquid. Push to one side and add the minced trail with a table- spoon
of butter for each bird, heat and stir, add a squeeze of lemon juice
or a dash of good vinegar. Pour gravy over toast and lay bird halves
on top. A Frenchman would be shocked if the
heads of either woodcock or snipe were cut off, for he likes to pick
the brains of that last delectable tidbit. The long neck is
twisted, the head is turned so the bill points forward and is held in
that position by the bacon wrapping. from
The Country Cookbook pp. 113-115 by Cora, Rose &
Bob Brown. The
Countryman Press, Inc. Weston, Vermont; 1937. |
Mange
forte! ... . *******
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