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Vol. I, No. 6Sugaring / Spring EquinoxMar. 16th, 2001

Auto & Travel
AutoMotives

 

A Paranoiac's Guide to Buying a Used Car, Part 2

Ed. Note:  This is the 4th installment from our paranoiac.  December's Paranoiac's Guide to Winter Driving seemed to strike a chord with at least some folks, and January's Guide to Auto Defects stirred some others, so we again invited our paranoiac {who, obviously, prefers to remain anonymous}  to give us his take on Buying a Used Car.  If you missed Part 1 last month, click here.  ...

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Ok.  ...

Last month, we talked a little bit about the culture of used car sales.  And despite the fact that we're now being sold "previously owned vehicles," or whatever other euphemism they may be called by, the fact is, you're out to buy a car that's not new ... in other words, it's used

Now, if you missed Part 1, I want to urge you to begin at the beginning.  There's nothing more anxiety-producing for a true paranoiac than to think that something's been overlooked.  ...  

Ok?  Ok.  ...

Reviewing the Rules:

  1. Caveat emptor ... Let the buyer beware.

  1. Anything obvious and relatively inexpensive to fix will, almost always, have already been fixed.

  1. You don't always get what you pay for ... but you'll rarely get more than you pay for.

Last month, we covered the details for "Before You Start It Up."  ...  Now we're ready to ...

Start It Up, But Don't Go Anywhere Yet ...

The Paranoiac's Used Car Checklist
Your 20-Point Walk-Through

   In this issue and the next, we'll be covering these 20 steps in more detail.  But for those who like an overview, here you go:

Before you start it up ... {Part 1}

  1. Check the Tires.

  2. Check for leaks on the ground.

  3. Check the oil and engine compartment.

Start it up, but don't go anywhere yet {Part 2}

  1. Look & listen ... carefully.

  2. Check the gears in place.

  3. Check the emergency brake.

Take off ... slowly

  1. Look & listen ... carefully.

  2. Check the brakes.

  3. Check the gears and clutch ... or automatic transmission.

  4. Check the emergency brake again.

  5. Make a hard slow right.  Feel and listen.  ... Now left.

  6. Check the brakes again.

  7. Check the idiot lights or {hopefully} the gauges.

Get back to where you started ...

  1. Let it idle in place for at least 5 minutes, then turn it off.

  2. Pop the hood and check the engine compartment for any new oil.  Look at the dipstick again.

  3. Now look at the body.

  4. Take a deep breath, then make a mental list of any questions you have or problems you found.

Talk to the seller ...

  1. Just plain ask whatever questions you came up with and {I'll say it again} listen carefully.

  2. Thank the seller and shake hands.

  3. Go home and sleep on it.

Starting:  There's a lot you can learn about a car just from turning the key.  First of all, if it gives you a hard time, then there may be a problem with the ignition system somewhere ... distributor, coil, plugs, wires, battery, terminals  ... or maybe even the ignition switch itself.

Of course, problems starting can also be caused by a lack of fuel, or too much, though that's not as likely to to be a problem when you're just starting unless you've flooded the thing. 

It's pretty basic here.  You need the crank & spark that come from turning the engine over.  But if there's no fuel, or dirty fuel, or the fuel pump isn't working, or the fuel filter is clogged, then the odds of turning it over are slim to none.  A second 'of course'?  ...  If the weather is warm and you're having trouble, ask yourself what it'll be like when the weather turns cold.  ...

Listening:  Assuming it starts ok, the next question is:  What does it sound like?  Would you recognize a valve tap if you heard one?  If it's tapping slightly, it may only need a valve adjustment.  If it's tapping badly, then tap your wallet to see how much money you're ready to throw away.  ... What about recognizing a ping or a knock?  Here, too, the problem can be anything as simple as cheap fuel {which, nonetheless, tells you something about how the car has been treated} to something a lot more serious, like an engine about to die.  But if it cranks and starts and idles and drops back Ok, without any noises that make you wonder, let's continue.  ... 

Before we leave the world of sounds, think about this.  Most sounds that emanate from a hole in the muffler or catalytic converter are pretty obvious.  But the sound that comes from lots of rust and corrosion inside the exhaust system may not be.  Mufflers seem to have a way of, well, muffling any problem until the thing suddenly begins to sound like an outboard on a bass boat.  If you're buying American, that may not be a deal-breaker.  Most mufflers for domestic models aren't all that pricey.  But if you're looking at an import, especially if you're trying to find something inexpensive {though why you'd be looking to an import for a cheap car is beyond me}, think twice.  Muffler systems on imports can be priced right up there.

Let's assume things sound good enough to still consider buying this thing.  What to do next?  ...

Looking:  Take a peak over your shoulder out the back window.  What do you see?

If the weather's cold, especially if it's in the teens or below, then you're likely to see steam coming out the tailpipe.  This is true, almost no matter how new the car is.  But even when the weather is warmer, you can still see steam blowing out the exhaust, even if the car's been running for a little while.  Moisture finds its way into the exhaust system, and once the engine's running and warming things up, guess what?  That moisture will evaporate and blow out the back end.  The only possible problems here comes in one of two ways, or sometimes both.  ...

The first problem should almost always be a deal-breaker, unless you're looking for something to last less than a few to maybe six months, at best.  Why?  Burned out rings also send billows of grayish stuff out the tail pipe.  The only difference is, unlike steam, this stuff doesn't evaporate.  If it's burning oil, the smoke will hang in the air.  If it is, ask yourself what you expect from this ride.  If you expect to still be on the road a half-year from now without swapping or rebuilding the engine, walk away.

The second problem is little more difficult to sort out.  Just like the moisture in the exhaust system, a cooling system leak will also send steam, not burning oil, out the tailpipe.  There are usually two causes -- a leak around the head gasket, or, worse, a cracked head.  Either way, it's not good news.  And the only way to tell if that is antifreeze, and not just moisture, is to go sniff the stuff, so you'll have to wait a little bit to check it out.  But if it does turn out to have that distinctive sweet-sour smell of antifreeze, you have to ask yourself whether it's a head gasket leak or a cracked head.  A gasket leak usually comes as a result of a warped head, something that's a lot more common on the newer aluminum engines than on the older cast iron ones.  Small leaks can sometimes be plugged with the same stuff you use for the radiator.  But such an approach rarely works long-term.  A head that's warped usually needs to be planed and re-gasketed.   On the other hand, a head that's cracked can make an interesting lawn ornament.  If it's cracked, then there's a pretty good chance that the oil is mixing with the antifreeze.  So, once you've taken the test drive and let the thing cool down while you talk with the owner, you can pop the radiator cap and check it out.  The antifreeze should be green.  But an older car is likely to have some rust mingling in.  The best way to tell is to dip a finger in there and rub it against another finger.  Antifreeze rarely feels like the kind of lubricant that even burnt oil is.

Check the Gears in Place:  Now you're ready for a simple run through the gears.  If it's a standard, simply throw the clutch in and slide through them.  Are they all there?  Does the shifter slide easily?  Or did you grind a pound or two along the way?  If it's an automatic, move through the gears a little more slowly.  How long does it take the gear to engage?  Cold weather, especially on an older vehicle, will slow things down some.  But it shouldn't take too long, no matter how cold the weather ... though, the older the vehicle, the slower it's likely to be.  ...

Before You Start to Go, Make Sure You Can Stop:  Finally, check the emergency brake!  Just give it a tug or a push, whatever.  If it's sloppy, you don't even need to take this next step.  But if it feels reasonably engaged, then let the clutch out slowly in 1st and be ready to throw it back in before you stall out ... or, if it's an automatic, simply put it in drive and take your foot off the brake.  The thing shouldn't budge.  If it does, then the e-brake either needs adjusting {at the least}, or possibly new springs or cables.

One more thought that bares repeating before I go  ...  Nothing, and I mean nothing, is an absolute prohibition when it comes to buying a used car.  For example, when one of the kids started driving, we spent $200 on an old Pontiac LE with oil obviously pooled up around the air filter.  Why?  Two reasons.  ...

First, winter was coming and we wanted the kid to have a tank, not because we were worried about his driving, but because it seemed like the best measure for the sake of defensive driving for someone new on the road.  Second, because winter was coming, we didn't want to risk a better rig for his first solo test runs on winter roads.  But third, and most important, since we all knew {including the genuinely honest seller} that he'd be needing to clean the air filter housing and feed this thing oil regularly, he learned to take care of the car as part of the routine experience of driving.

So, no car is out of the question.  The only real question we're trying to answer here is what to look for in a used car, and, within reason, what to pay attention to and pay when you think you've found what you're looking for.

Ok.  That's it for now.  ...  

Next issue:  Taking it for a spin ... finally.

Questions?  Let me know.  I'll be happy to try and answer them next time around.
.

The AutoMotives Paranoiac       
a.k.a. Anonymous               

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