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Weekend Warrior In conjunction with this month's Inner Space feature -- "Rather Than Climb the Walls ..." -- we thought we'd devote our Weekend Warrior to interior painting. ... Of course, most folks probably know the basics of interior painting. But it never hurts to double-check your plans. ... In this edition of Weekend Warrior, we're going to assume that you're painting your walls and/or ceiling using latex, not alkyd or oil-based paints. The latter really do require more ventilation than you can easily manage, even on a relatively warm late winter day. ... Ready ... Set ...: Preparing for the Job Prep materials ...
The first order of business is to wash, patch, sand & prime, as needed. ... Wash off any dirt, grease, soap, or oil buildup. The best bet is a solution of household detergent and water. When you're done, make sure you rinse the surfaces thoroughly. You don't want any lingering detergent to spoil the job. Check for damaged wallboard or plaster on walls or ceiling and patch as needed. Once the patching is cured, sand to a paintable finish. Once you've finished the repairs, you have to prep the room. ... Remove any drapes, pictures, area rugs, and, to make life easier, all hardware, switches, cover plates, etc. Use masking tape to cover any hardware you can't remove. Next, as much as possible, move all the furniture to the center of the room and cover it with drop cloths. Caulk any gaps between the walls and trim and tape off the woodwork. You'll probably also want to wrap some plastic around your light fixtures. Finally, before you begin to paint, crack a window or door for ventilation. Since this is a winter painting project, you may want to keep the opening to a minimum, but supplement the air flow with a portable fan, facing out, to draw air through the room. The rest of the materials ...
Choosing the Paint ... As we mentioned, if you're going to take this project in during the late winter, then adequate ventilation becomes an issue. You need some ventilation, but you want to keep it as limited as possible, so you're best off with latex paint. And, if you want to go the extra distance, you can go with a low-odor variety that contains the least possible VOC's {volatile organic compounds}. The last thing you need during Cabin Fever season is a wanging headache, not to mention the inconvenience of doing your lungs some damage. ... Beyond the type of paint, you'll have to decide about a tint or color. Either way, know that colors and tones that lean toward the red end of the spectrum tend to make a room feel 'warmer' and somewhat 'smaller', while those that lean toward blue go the opposite way, toward 'cooler' and 'larger'. Don't be too swayed here by the fact that it's still winter. A somewhat small room may feel just right in winter with a reddish undertone, but it might actually feel cramped come summer. As for the woodwork, we're prejudiced in favor of a solid color against a slightly tinted white or eggshell on the walls and ceilings. {Not everyone will agree, of course.} It makes for a bit more work, no question. But, to us, it's worth the extra effort. How much paint will you need? Check out this month's Links to House & Home On-Line for links to project planners from True Vale, Sherwin-Williams, and other similar helpful tools. ... To Prime or Not to Prime ? If the walls are new, you have to prime. Period. If not, then the question is a little different. If there are stains, mildew, or, if the new old color is darker or brighter than the new one, then you probably want to prime anyway. At a minimum, just be sure to prime those newly spackled areas and any bare spots. The Order of Things: Mix Well ... Then Top to Bottom, Edges In The first order of business, obviously, is to make sure the paint is mixed well. If you just came back from the hardware store and they mixed it for you, you're ready to go. Otherwise, pop the lid and stir, gently at first, from the bottom. ... Also, if you're even the slightest bit concerned that the colors of each gallon are not identical, you'll probably want to combine all your paint into that 5-gallon bucket, mix it well there, then return it to the individual cans. If you're going all out, ceiling to baseboards, then the order of things here is simple: Start at the top and work your way down. ... For ceilings, walls, and most doors, begin with a 2"-4" brush-on at the edges. Dip the brush about 1/3 and don't take off excess on the edge of the can. Simply apply it lightly on the first few strokes, then spread and smooth. ... Once you've got your edges done, then roller the rest. Here, you definitely want to use those ridges in the pan to remove excess from the roller. There are lots of schools of thought on how best to apply the paint with a roller. One school uses a 'W' stroke, overlapping successive strokes in about 6-foot squares, then comes back and smoothes the rest with light strokes in a single direction at right angles, top to bottom or vice versa for walls, any right angle direction for ceilings. The other group favors the 'N' stroke, and uses roughly 2-foot squares. Either way, you want to be sure you don't try such a large section that your paint begins to dry before you've had a chance to come back to smooth and even it. Windows and Doors ... Technique here depends on whether we're talking double-hung or casement for windows, flat surface or paneled for doors. Either way, though, for a late winter painting project, unless you've lucked out with a truly warm day, you'll probably want to limit yourself to the interior surfaces. You can save the sash and edges for a weekend project this summer. A Note About Faux Finishes ... Faux finishes {literally, 'false' finishes} have become fairly popular over the last couple of decades. Basically, you have your choice of sponging, rag rolling, or combing. In addition, there are now lots of specialty tools on the market to help with such a project. But be advised: Some of the techniques can be time-consuming, and some really require a partner to work with for best results. Well ... That's it for the basics. If you'd like more info, check out this month's Links to House & Home On-Line for more tips and links to info on interior painting. ... Meanwhile ... enjoy your weekend. . ******* ******* If you would like to submit something for our House & Home section, don't hesitate to let us know. Simply e-mail us at house@downstreetmagazine.com. The e-mail should contain your name, address, and a phone number where we can reach you. You may also send a copy of your proposed article. The text can either be included in the body of the e-mail, or you can send it as an attachment in just about any word processing format. If your piece is accepted, we will pay a small honorarium for your interest & your time. [See Freelancers Wanted for more details.] ******* ******* If you would like to advertise in this section, or throughout the magazine, please visit our Advertising Info Pages ... or call, write, or e-mail ads@downstreetmagazine.com. ******* *******
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