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The Winter
Carnival Chanson
du Carnaval Associated with New Orleans and Rio, Mardi Gras doesn't usually bring to mind images of ice & snow sculptures. ...
But that's exactly the fare at the world's third-largest carnival, which also happens to be the largest winter carnival on the planet. ... Where? ... Québec, of course. ... Since 1894, the city of Québec has hosted a winter carnival that, today, brings more than a million visitors from all over the world. Originally, the Carnival coincided with Mardi Gras {literally, "Fat Tuesday" -- or Shrove Tuesday}, a last, raucous fling that culminated on the day before the beginning of Lent on Ash Wednesday. Initially, until about WW I, the Carnival ran only every other year, and for a shorter time. Then in the years after, it was organized even more sporadically than that, until, in 1955, a group of local business folks decided to make it an annual event. Now, it is, as we said, the largest winter carnival in the world. For more than two weeks, the city is filled with music, dancing, ice sculpture, night parades, and a host of other activities that make the most of weather where an average of 11 feet of snow falls each winter. ... This Year: January 26th - February 11th ... Like any moveable feast, the dates can vary. This year's Winter Carnival kicks off the evening of January 26th with the appearance of the indomitable snowman, Bonhomme, and Bottine Souriante. Later that evening, you can don a costume and attend the Fiesta Latino, which will import some of the rhythms, if not the weather, from South America. The next day, at 1 p.m., the city hosts "La Grande Virée," the Provincial Dogsled Championship, which winds through the streets of the Old City. In a similar vein, there's also the traditional Canoe Race across the St. Lawrence to Lévis, scheduled for Sunday, Feb 4th at 1:30, from Bassin Louise. It's a formidable task in which contestants must navigate, not only some cold weather and treacherous currents, but ice floes, to reach the other side. The day before, there's also a now-traditional Soap Box Derby, also held in the Old City, down Côte de la Fabrique.
The following weekend, for the heartier souls in the crowd, there's even a Snow Bath, in which participants wade and wash in the city's most plentiful winter commodity ... bathing suits only. {FYI: According to one source, the warmest average temp during the Carnival's 47 years of consecutive runs was about 16°F.} Night Parades and a Grand Ball... If your tastes run more to the haûte of L'haûte Ville, you can indulge yourself at Bonhomme's Ball, a festive extravaganza held at the City's famed Le Château Frontenac, a hotel in the honestly grand fashion, in the heart of the Old City. The event is set for Friday, Feb. 9th, at 7 p.m. ... The Real Magic ...
As intriguing or beguiling as some of the activities might seem, there is one dimension of Québec's Winter Carnival that definitely deserves attention -- the Ice Sculptures. ... Throughout the Carnival, the Plains of Abraham, above the river and just outside the walls of the Old City, becomes a gallery of some of the most amazing sculpture. Here, you'll find entries from countries all over the world. {In 1998, more than 20 countries participated in the International Competition.} What's amazing about the results is the limits imposed by the rules: Sculptors are allowed only the most basic set of tools to work with -- shovels, axes, and knives. But in the end, it's almost heart-breaking to imagine these glorious works of art will melt away.
The most impressive work, of course, if only for its grandeur, is the traditional Ice Palace {shown at left in its 1981 incarnation}. ... The Ice Palace has become the traditional focal point of the Carnival -- from the opening ceremonies, through the night parades, to the closing event. ... If for no other reason, then, the ice sculptures and the Ice Palace make a visit to Québec's Winter Carnival a must at some point. ... If you've never been, you have to go. ... Besides, maybe we can learn a thing or two about how to make the most out of winter. ... . ******* ******* If you would like to submit something for our Travel Here & There feature, or if you simply would like to suggest something you think we ought to cover, e-mail us at ... autotravel@downstreetmagazine.com. ******* ******* If you would like to advertise in this section, or throughout the magazine, please visit our Advertising Info Pages ... or call, write, or e-mail ads@downstreetmagazine.com. ******* *******
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